Tips against cold feet while cycling
Winter riding means cold feet? Not anymore! With our tips, you can banish freezing toes and enjoy every chilly ride.
How to: Care for Your Bike Apparel - Proper Maintenance of Functional Fabrics
When it comes to washing and caring for your bike threads, you can do a lot right – or really wrong. We will show you how.
Imagine you're a bike garment. Not just any cheap jersey, but a fancy one with lots of functions. Sadly, things only go well in the beginning and then: maintenance backlog! You suffer because you've been washed wrongly (or not at all), dried, and waterproofed improperly. To prevent this, we're here to show you how to properly care for your bike clothing. Because lack of or improper care is unfortunately one of the most common reasons why expensive functional textiles kick the bucket too early or can't (anymore) fully perform.
Textile care is mandatory for long-term enjoyment of your bike clothes. © bc GmbH
Rain gear washing – a must!
Raincoats and Pants are genuine high-performance tools today. They block rain and splash water while letting sweat evaporate, so you stay as dry as possible under the jacket. To achieve this, they are equipped with so-called semipermeable membranes. These are bonded with the smooth inner and resilient outer fabrics into laminates. Waterproof laminates are called "hardshell."
To allow the tiny water molecules from our sweat to pass through the membrane to the outside, they need a clear path. The more often you use a rain jacket, the more it comes into contact with water as well as sweat, body oils, and dirt. Eventually, body fats and salts clog the membrane from the inside and mud residues from the outside. A superficial wipe of trail and road dirt removes only a fraction. That's why you should regularly wash your hardshell to free the membrane from dirt, fats, and salts. If you don't, you might even harm it in the long run.
Functional textiles need to be washed to do their job. © bc GmbH
Important aspects of washing Hardshell:
- Definitely check the manufacturer's washing instructions – right on the label inside the jacket or trousers! Most manufacturers also have care instructions on their websites, sometimes even as videos.
- Only use special liquid detergent and be very sparing with it. You should not use washing powder, as it can settle in the tiny pores of the membrane and clog it.
- Do not use softener or bleach!
- Watch the washing temperature! Most functional textiles – especially Hardshells – don't like it hotter than 40 degrees. If you wash them hotter, the tapes on the seams might come off, for example.
- Many modern washing machines already have preset programs for functional/outdoor textiles. If not: definitely choose the gentle cycle and skip the spin cycle! It's best to let your Hardshells rinse a second time at the end to remove all detergent residues from the membrane.
- In general – whether Hardshell jacket or other textiles – close all zippers and Velcro fasteners! During the hours-long tumbling and rolling movements, they become grinding stones and "mesh pullers."
- Open all drawstrings!
- Do not put too many items in the drum at once!
- Sort the laundry clean beforehand and ideally wash only "pure" types. This means your light green bike jacket shouldn't end up in the washing drum with the new dark blue jeans.
- The dirtier the items, the more important is a pre-wash – either by hand or in the machine. Soaking helps, but not too long.
- Since Hardshells, unlike underwear, are not a "frequent wash product," the following rule of thumb applies: wash as often as necessary, as seldom as possible.
It is generally recommended to close all zippers before washing. © bc GmbH
Re-waterproofing Hardshells
Without a water-repellent waterproofing of the outer fabrics, Hardshells wouldn't function as expected. Because once the so-called DWR waterproofing ("durable water repellent") is worn out, the top fabric layer soaks up water over a large area, creating a clammy, moist feeling. Moreover, the vapor permeability is noticeably reduced. Your sweat can no longer escape and condenses on the inside of the jacket or on the clothing layer underneath. It feels as if your high-quality Hardshell jacket is no longer waterproof – although it's actually just your own sweat on the inside of the Hardshell creating this feeling.
When brand new, hardshells are pre-impregnated from the factory and wonderfully let moisture bead off the exterior. However, this effect can wear off over time due to mechanical abrasion or depending on how often you wear it. Depending on the manufacturer, you can reactivate the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) by applying heat in the dryer (up to 30 minutes at 140 degrees Fahrenheit). After a certain period, however, rain jackets and pants should be re-impregnated - using either a spray or a wash-in waterproofing.
The spray solution is a bit more work but more targeted since it's applied only to the outside (the inside doesn't need to be water-repellent). The wash-in solution is still better than no re-impregnation and much easier to handle.
There are significant differences in environmental compatibility and the hazardous substances contained in sprays and detergents. In our store, we provide you with the relevant information.
You should put delicate items in a water-permeable bag for washing. © bc GmbH
Always dose detergent for functional textiles exactly according to the instructions. © bc GmbH
If your machine doesn't have a sports program, use the most suitable one according to the manufacturer's recommendation. © bc GmbH
Quick guide: waterproofing spray
Read the manufacturer's instructions for the spray! They may differ here and there from our general tips. For example, there are impregnations that do not require heat activation by dryer or iron.
- Lay the still damp jacket outdoors on the ground, spray the impregnation solution generously and then rub it into the fabric with a soft sponge!
- Afterward, either hang it up to air dry or put it directly in the tumble dryer! If you don't have a dryer, an iron can do the trick: Turn it to Synthetics setting (low heat) and place a thin kitchen towel in between! This allows the heat to penetrate while protecting slightly raised areas like zipper garages.
- Test on an inconspicuous area to see if the hardshell changes color from the impregnation solution! If that's the case, it's better to re-impregnate your hardshell thoroughly, otherwise you'll later see partial discolorations on the fabric.
For the application of spray impregnation, you should hang your jacket or lay it flat on the ground. © bc GmbH
Washing Down Clothing
Downs are the soft, fluffy underfeathers of waterfowl like geese and ducks. They consist of fine, three-dimensional branched fibers that store air and thus offer excellent heat insulation. Down is especially lightweight, breathable, and compressible, making it ideal for outdoor clothing and sleeping bags.
Down clothing requires special care to maintain its loftiness and thus its insulating ability. Use a special down detergent, as conventional detergents can destroy the natural fat coating of the downs. Wash down jackets, vests, or sleeping bags on a delicate cycle at a maximum of 86 °F with plenty of water and reduce the spin cycle (max. 800 rpm) to avoid damaging the delicate downs. The proper drying is crucial after washing: Dry the clothing at a low temperature in the dryer and add a few tennis balls to fluff up the downs. Alternatively, the clothing can be air-dried, but it must be regularly shaken to avoid clumping.
Down clothing can also be washed – but only very carefully and with special detergents. © bc GmbH
Caring for Baselayers, Cycling Jerseys, and Softshell Jackets
Unlike hardshell jackets, bike jerseys and baselayers typically go into the washer after each training session. However, this isn't necessary for products made of merino wool. Merino might not be the first choice for race days – but for many other activities, these "wool shirts" play an increasingly important role: They are comfortable and tend to have a much lower stink factor compared to polyester variants. For shirts and jerseys with a merino wool component, it's often enough to air them out overnight. This saves washing water, energy, and (special) detergent – and also saves money.
Polyester parts without a membrane or bike jackets for cold days with synthetic fillings like Primaloft, for example, are less demanding in care than hardshells but should not be neglected. They have to deal with sweat moisture and thus massively with body fats and salt crystals even more intensely than rainwear. For these as well, we recommend using functional detergents, gentle washing cycles, and checking the care instructions provided by the manufacturers. And while you're at it: Helmet pads can be easily washed with a load of functional clothes.
And now: Have fun properly taking care of your long-lasting bike clothes!
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