The mechanic tightens the stem with a torque wrench.
The mechanic tightens the stem with a torque wrench.

How-to: Adjusting headset play

Is the front of your bike wobbling or rattling? It could be the headset. Find out here how to check and adjust the headset bearing.

Every now and then, the headset on a bike loosens up a little. This is usually simply down to normal riding, which causes the bearings or clamped joints to settle over time, or vibrations shake something loose. Typical signs of a loose headset – also called the headset bearing – are play in the steering or a rattling noise when braking or riding on uneven ground. If you feel movement between the head tube and the stem, or between the head tube and the fork, you should check the headset preload. If the bearing feels a bit notchy and catches slightly, the headset may be worn.

In this guide, we'll explain exactly how to go about it. With a bit of tooling and a careful touch, you can easily adjust the bearing play yourself – whether on a touring bike, road bike, mountain bike, or gravel bike.

Note: Here we show you the procedure for an Ahead headset. The method described works both for carbon forks with an expander plug and for steel or aluminium forks with a star nut. If you're using a different headset system or a special cockpit, you should check your manufacturer's instructions.

Tools required

To adjust the headset bearing, you'll usually need the following tools:

Checking the bearing play in your bike's headset

Adjusting the headset takes a bit of a delicate touch: the bearings need to be preloaded just enough that no play is noticeable between the steerer tube and the cups. At the same time, the preload must be low enough that the headset – and with it the handlebar – still turns smoothly.

To check the headset play, proceed as follows:

  • Lock the front wheel with the brake!
  • At the same time, push the handlebar forwards and backwards!

If the headset preload is too low, the steerer tube will move slightly within the headset bearings. You'll feel this play immediately at the handlebar or at the junction between the head tube and the fork.

The mechanic looks at the front brake and moves the bike forwards and backwards. If the headset is loose, the mechanic notices the handlebar moving.

Pull the front brake and move the handlebar forwards and backwards! If the headset has play, you'll feel it immediately.

To feel the play directly and make sure the movement is really coming from the headset and not, for example, from loose brake pads, proceed as follows:

  • With your fingers, hold the lower part of the head tube and the upper area of the fork crown at the same time!
  • Apply the front brake and rock your bike forwards and backwards!

If you feel movement between the head tube and the fork crown, the headset probably has play. Follow our guide to set the preload correctly!

The mechanic places a finger on the junction between the head tube and the fork crown. If play occurs, he checks the headset.

If the steerer tube moves inside the head tube, the play is coming from the headset.

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Step 1: Loosen the stem

Step 1: Loosen the stem

First, loosen the stem's clamp bolts on the steerer tube. Loosen the bolts until the stem can turn easily on the steerer tube! Otherwise the headset preload can't be adjusted.

First, loosen the stem's clamp bolts on the steerer tube. Loosen the bolts until the stem can turn easily on the steerer tube! Otherwise the headset preload can't be adjusted.

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Step 2: Adjust the headset preload

Step 2: Adjust the headset preload

Now adjust the bearing play using the vertical headset bolt – also called the tensioning bolt or Ahead bolt – in the stem's top cap.

Important: be very careful here and tighten the bolt only in small increments! Often a quarter or half turn is already enough. The Ahead bolt is used solely to set the bearing preload.

Then check the play in the headset using the brake method described earlier. If you no longer feel any play in the bearing, next check whether the handlebar still turns smoothly. More on that in step 3.

If you still feel play in the bearing, tighten the Ahead bolt a little more! Then check the remaining play at the handlebar using the brake method again! Work your way forward slowly until you no longer feel any bearing play!

Now adjust the bearing play using the vertical headset bolt – also called the tensioning bolt or Ahead bolt – in the stem's top cap.

Important: be very careful here and tighten the bolt only in small increments! Often a quarter or half turn is already enough. The Ahead bolt is used solely to set the bearing preload.

Then check the play in the headset using the brake method described earlier. If you no longer feel any play in the bearing, next check whether the handlebar still turns smoothly. More on that in step 3.

If you still feel play in the bearing, tighten the Ahead bolt a little more! Then check the remaining play at the handlebar using the brake method again! Work your way forward slowly until you no longer feel any bearing play!

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Step 3: Checking the headset bearing preload

Step 3: Checking the headset bearing preload

If the preload is set correctly, the handlebar turns smoothly to the left and right without any noticeable resistance. It may even tip to one side on its own if you give it a light nudge.

If the handlebar doesn't move smoothly, the preload may be too high. Go back to step 2, loosen the Ahead bolt slightly and start the process again! As soon as no play is noticeable in the headset bearing and the handlebar turns freely, the preload is set correctly.

If the play can't be eliminated, the headset bearing may be worn. More on this in the final chapter.

If the preload is set correctly, the handlebar turns smoothly to the left and right without any noticeable resistance. It may even tip to one side on its own if you give it a light nudge.

If the handlebar doesn't move smoothly, the preload may be too high. Go back to step 2, loosen the Ahead bolt slightly and start the process again! As soon as no play is noticeable in the headset bearing and the handlebar turns freely, the preload is set correctly.

If the play can't be eliminated, the headset bearing may be worn. More on this in the final chapter.

To check that the headset preload is correct, you can also try turning your spacers. If they no longer turn, the preload is usually sufficient.

If the headset still has play even though the Ahead bolt is tightened firmly and the spacers no longer turn, something isn't right. It could be that the headset was fitted incorrectly, or that the top cap is clamping directly onto the steerer tube. There should always be a small gap between the cap and the steerer tube. If that's not the case, check whether you need to add a spacer or shorten the steerer tube slightly.

To check that the headset preload is correct, you can also try turning your spacers. If they no longer turn, the preload is usually sufficient.

If the headset still has play even though the Ahead bolt is tightened firmly and the spacers no longer turn, something isn't right. It could be that the headset was fitted incorrectly, or that the top cap is clamping directly onto the steerer tube. There should always be a small gap between the cap and the steerer tube. If that's not the case, check whether you need to add a spacer or shorten the steerer tube slightly.

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Step 4: Retighten the stem

Step 4: Retighten the stem

Align the stem and front tyre straight ahead! Make absolutely sure that the stem sits exactly parallel to, i.e. in line with, the front tyre!

Now tighten the stem's clamp bolts! When tightening the bolts, pay attention to the torque values specified by the manufacturer!

Once the stem clamp is tight again, you're done.

Note: the headset may settle slightly on your first ride, and you might notice bearing play in the handlebar again. If that happens, you'll need to increase the preload a little. This is not unusual on mountain bikes, as the strong impacts and vibrations often cause the bearings to settle somewhat.

It's best to check the headset at regular intervals. This is an effective way to prevent premature wear of the headset bearing.

Align the stem and front tyre straight ahead! Make absolutely sure that the stem sits exactly parallel to, i.e. in line with, the front tyre!

Now tighten the stem's clamp bolts! When tightening the bolts, pay attention to the torque values specified by the manufacturer!

Once the stem clamp is tight again, you're done.

Note: the headset may settle slightly on your first ride, and you might notice bearing play in the handlebar again. If that happens, you'll need to increase the preload a little. This is not unusual on mountain bikes, as the strong impacts and vibrations often cause the bearings to settle somewhat.

It's best to check the headset at regular intervals. This is an effective way to prevent premature wear of the headset bearing.

Bearing play despite a correctly preloaded headset

If you still feel play in the headset bearing despite sufficient or even excessive preload, the bearing is either dirty and dry, worn, or the headset wasn't fitted correctly. If it's just dirt, a thorough cleaning and fresh grease often help. If the bearing is worn, the ball bearings will have pressed into the bearing cup and it will feel a bit notchy. The headset may also catch when the handlebar is pointing straight ahead. If you need a new headset or new bearings and aren't yet familiar with the S.H.I.S. standard, our guide "S.H.I.S. explained simply for everyone" can help.

If your bike is making noises elsewhere too, you'll find more troubleshooting tips in our guide: "Fixing creaking noises on your bike". And if you'd like to know which components on your bike you should service regularly, we have a handy inspection guide for that.

FAQ: Adjusting the headset

How can I tell my headset has play?

The simplest test: pull the front brake firmly and push the bike forwards and backwards! Place a finger on the junction between the lower bearing cup and the head tube as you do this: if you feel a click or movement there, the play really is in the headset and not in the brake caliper, the thru-axle, or the fork.

Why does my headset keep developing play?

If the play reappears right after adjusting, the stem or top cap bolts usually aren't tightened correctly, the fork isn't seated properly, or a spacer is missing. If the play returns despite correct assembly, the headset is often worn and needs to be replaced.

How can I tell if my headset is worn?

A worn headset shows up as a rough, notchy feel when steering, or a noticeable catch when the handlebar is straight ahead. First check that the preload isn't too high and that the bearing isn't dry or dirty. If the bearing still feels rough despite correct preload and enough grease, the headset really is worn and needs replacing. Likewise, if you can't get rid of the play in the headset despite sufficient preload, that points to a worn headset bearing.

How much preload does the headset need?

The preload set via the Ahead bolt should be just high enough that no play remains and the handlebar still turns easily – no tighter than that. Too much preload makes the bearings run stiffly and wear out.

What's the difference between a headset and a headset bearing?

Both terms are used for the same component: the bearing assembly that allows the fork to rotate in the frame.

How much does it cost to replace a headset?

The headset itself costs roughly ten to 300 euros, depending on the standard and quality. There are integrated (IS), semi-integrated (OS, EC) and press-fit headsets. Your new headset also needs to be compatible with the diameter(s) and shape of your head tube and steerer tube.

What actually is a bicycle headset?

The headset is the bearing unit between the fork and the frame that makes steering possible in the first place. It ensures the fork turns smoothly and without play. If it's adjusted incorrectly or worn, the steering will feel loose or rough – both of which affect control and safety.

Why is my headset creaking?

A loose, dry or worn headset creaks when steering, braking, or riding out of the saddle. First check the preload and play (follow this guide) and grease the bearing cups. If the creaking persists, the bearing is usually worn and needs to be replaced. Important: creaking can also come from the seatpost, stem, or bottom bracket. Narrow down the cause before replacing your headset!

My handlebar turns stiffly or catches: is the headset too tight?

Yes, that's the flip side of play: if the preload is too tight, the steering will feel stiff or catch slightly in the centre. Loosen the top cap a little and reset the preload – just tight enough that there's no more play and the handlebar still turns freely.