Tube or tubeless on your bike: which system suits which use case?

Ever since John Boyd Dunlop invented the pneumatic tyre in 1888, almost all bicycles have rolled on air-filled tyres. How the air is held inside the tyre, however, has changed a great deal over the decades. Today you can choose between an (inner) tube, tubeless systems, or tubular tyres. All these systems have their advantages and their place. After all, the requirements for a mountain bike differ from those for a road bike, a gravel bike, or a commuter bike. We explain the common solutions and show which system makes sense for your bike and how you use it.

TL;DR – the essentials at a glance!

Looking for a quick answer on which system is best for you? No problem: if you

• you place special value on maximum performance and puncture resistance off-road (MTB, gravel & cross): tubeless
• you're after a lightweight, fast-rolling system that's easy to handle: TPU tube
• you want an affordable, easy-to-handle and robust solution: butyl tube

In the sections below, we explain in more detail why each system suits which purpose.

Butyl bicycle tubes

Most bicycle tubes are made from butyl rubber – butyl for short. The material has proven itself over a long time and can be used universally. Butyl tubes are affordable and hold air reliably over long periods. That makes them a good fit for bikes that sit unused for a while between rides, or for commuters who'd rather spend as little time as possible on maintenance. Most manufacturers offer them in different weight classes, varying the material thickness. Tubes made from thicker material are cheaper and more robust, offering a bit more protection against pinch flats and punctures. Tubes made from thinner material are lighter and therefore especially useful for sporty riding, since less material also means less rolling resistance. In case of a flat, you can easily repair butyl tubes with self-adhesive patches, or reach for the tried-and-tested patch kit with rubber patches and vulcanizing solution. If sustainability matters to you, you'll be interested to know that butyl tubes can be recycled. Tubes from Schwalbe have for some time now contained a share of recycled old tubes. The market for butyl tubes is dominated by the major tyre manufacturers.

Latex bicycle tubes

Latex tubes were popular with ambitious cyclists for a long time. They're lighter and more supple than butyl and offer very low rolling resistance. Today, though, they play more of a niche role, since tubes made from thermoplastic materials are easier to handle and pack down significantly smaller. When fitting latex tubes, you should be a bit more careful, since the material is delicate and shouldn't get pinched between tyre and rim, or caught by a tyre lever. Since latex doesn't hold air as long as butyl, it's a good idea to check your tyre pressure more often and top it up as needed. Small holes can be repaired with an ordinary patch kit.

A racing edge: tubular tyres

Tubular tyres – also known simply as "tubulars" – are self-contained, airtight tyres. To run tubulars, you need wheels with special rims, onto which the tyres are glued using tubular cement, glue, or tape. The valve is built permanently into the tyre. This means the tyre-and-rim combination can be built very light. Tubular tyres roll fast and smoothly. They're common among cyclocross and road-racing pros, but ambitious recreational riders can benefit from their advantages too. In case of a flat, you can try to help yourself with tubeless sealant before the tyre needs to be replaced. However, fitting and repairing tubulars isn't trivial.

Comparison table: pros and cons of the different systems

FAQ: Tube or tubeless on your bike

Tubeless or tube – which is better?

That depends on how you use your bike. Off-road and at low pressures, tubeless offers more grip and puncture protection, but is more involved to set up and maintain. A tube system is simpler and cheaper. If you use a light (but pricier) plastic tube, you can score with the lowest overall system weight. In short: tubeless is definitely preferable off-road and can make sense for ambitious road riding too. A tube suits you if you're after a simple, low-maintenance system.

What are the drawbacks of tubeless?

Tubeless is more demanding to set up, and the sealant needs to be topped up regularly, since it gets used up sealing small holes or dries out over time. Larger cuts that the sealant can't close are more of a hassle to fix on the road – sometimes only fitting a tube will get you home.

How much weight do I really save with tubeless?

A tubeless setup saves less weight than you might think: yes, you save the tube, but you have to factor in sealant, valves, rim tape, and the sometimes heavier tubeless-ready tyres. Altogether, a tubeless system is often a bit heavier than a setup with a lightweight TPU tube.

How often do I need to top up the sealant?

The sealant dries out over time and loses its sealing effect. Depending on the sealant used, temperature, how airtight your tyre-and-rim system is, and how you use your bike, you should top up sealant roughly every two to six months. A simple check: shake the tyre. If you no longer hear any liquid, it's time to top up.

Who benefits from tubeless, and who from a tube?

Tubeless is worthwhile above all for MTB, gravel, and ambitious road cyclists who want low pressure, grip, and puncture protection. For a classic everyday or touring bike, and for anyone who prefers an uncomplicated system, a tube is usually the better choice. A lightweight TPU tube suits anyone who wants to combine good performance with simple handling.

Butyl, TPU, or latex: which tube is right for me?

Butyl is the robust, affordable standard – it holds air well but is the heaviest. Latex rolls the easiest and is very supple, but loses air quickly and is delicate. TPU or TPE tubes are extremely light, pack down small, and hold air very well. Depending on the model, their rolling resistance comes close to tubeless levels. Just keep in mind they need special patches!

Are TPU tubes (e.g. Aerothan) better than butyl?

TPU tubes are significantly lighter than butyl and offer lower rolling resistance. Depending on the model, this brings them very close to a tubeless setup. In exchange, TPU tubes are noticeably more expensive, more heat-sensitive, and can only be patched with special patches. As a lightweight spare tube, or for ambitious riders who want to optimise weight and rolling resistance, they're an excellent choice. For everyday use, butyl remains the solid, uncomplicated, and affordable solution.

What is the Schwalbe Clik Valve?

The Clik Valve is a new valve system from Schwalbe that makes inflating easier: the pump head clicks into place without a lever or screw thread, airflow is improved, and the system seals reliably while pumping.

Is tubeless faster?

On smooth asphalt, the difference is small: tubeless rolls about as easily as a tyre with a TPU tube. The noticeable advantage really shows up off-road. There, you can run tubeless at lower pressure, which brings more grip and comfort while reducing rolling losses caused by rough terrain.

How do I convert to tubeless?

In brief: first check whether your rim and tyre are tubeless-ready, and fit a tubeless-compatible rim tape if needed! Then insert the tubeless valve, mount the tyre, and give it a strong blast of air (compressor or tubeless booster) so it seats properly! Finally, pour the sealant in through the valve, insert the valve core, and inflate the tyre. You'll find a step-by-step guide in our how-to on converting to tubeless.