MTB Handlebars: The Control Centre for Every Terrain

The handlebars are the control centre of your mountain bike. There is hardly another component that lets you improve handling, comfort and ergonomics so easily and at comparatively little cost. The right mountain bike handlebars give you more control on the trail. They can prevent numb hands, improve your riding position and even help you compensate for small gaps in your technique. But which handlebars suit you and your discipline? How wide should your MTB handlebars be? What do terms like backsweep, upsweep and rise actually mean? What should you look out for when it comes to material and clamping? Here we explain the key basics and help you find the right handlebars for your mountain bike.

If you are looking for new road bike handlebars, you will find all the key information in our road bike handlebar guide. And if you need new gravel bike handlebars, our gravel handlebar guide is the place to go.

tl;dr: Which MTB handlebars are right for me?

Looking for a quick answer to which MTB handlebars suit you? Here is the short version. As a rule: the more descending-focused your riding and the broader your shoulders, the wider your handlebars can be. Handlebar rise, too, usually depends on your discipline and on how high you want your cockpit. Below you will find guide values for each area of use.

Alongside width and rise, backsweep and upsweep also play an important part. These figures, however, depend less on your discipline than on your personal preference. In the following chapters we explain exactly what to look out for when choosing your MTB handlebars and what the key terms mean.

How wide should my MTB handlebars be?

Besides your discipline, your individual anatomy plays a part too. Your height and, above all, your shoulder width are therefore important criteria when choosing the right MTB handlebars. As a rule: the broader your shoulders, the wider your handlebars should be.

A good indication of the right handlebar width is your position on the bike: if you have to splay your arms unnaturally wide, or if your wrists are sharply angled outwards, the handlebars are probably too wide. On long rides or descents that quickly becomes tiring for your upper body. You will usually also find it harder to absorb hard impacts in this position. The awkward wrist angle can encourage hand problems or numb hands. Take into account the trails you ride most often, too: on very tight trails, slightly narrower handlebars can be an advantage. Weaving between close-set trees, 20 millimetres can be the difference between frustration and fun.

Since most handlebars can be shortened without any trouble, it is worth going for the wider option if in doubt. Then work your way gradually towards the right width by sliding your grips and levers slightly inwards. Just don't forget how wide your handlebars actually still are when you squeeze past a tree or another obstacle. Once you have found the width that feels right, cut the handlebars down to it.

Here you can find out how to do it and which tools you need:

What does upsweep mean on MTB handlebars?

Upsweep describes the upward bend in the grip area of mountain bike handlebars. More precisely, it is the angle between the horizontal and the grip section of the bar. On most handlebars the upsweep is between three and eight degrees, and many bars are fairly similar in this respect. If the upsweep is too pronounced, it can tilt your wrist inwards uncomfortably.

Aluminium, carbon or titanium: which material should your MTB handlebars be?

Carbon and aluminium are by far the most common materials for MTB handlebars. Both have their strengths. Which one suits you best depends on your discipline, how much comfort you want and, not least, your budget.

Aluminium is the classic choice for MTB handlebars: tough and uncomplicated. Modern alloy bars can be built very stiff at a relatively low weight and are considered comparatively insensitive to crashes or heavy loads. If you often ride with handlebar bags (and have not taped your bar), the resulting chafing marks will do less harm to an alloy bar. Aluminium is also almost fully recyclable, making it a fairly environmentally friendly material despite the relatively high energy cost of production. And not least, aluminium handlebars are considerably cheaper than carbon ones.

Carbon handlebars are regarded as light and comfortable. At identical dimensions, carbon bars are usually lighter than their aluminium counterparts. Another big advantage is that the stiffness and damping of carbon bars can be tuned far more precisely. Many high-quality models therefore filter vibration better and reduce the load on your body. You should, however, treat your carbon bar with great care: carbon assembly paste is required during fitting and a torque wrench is essential (which is of course also helpful with an alloy bar). If there is any chance of damage, you should replace the handlebars straight away, because crushed or kinked fibres cannot be spotted with the naked eye.

Because of their relatively high weight, steel handlebars now play only a minor role – even though they offer excellent stiffness and comfort figures. You tend to find them in the lower price segment, on touring bikes or in the trekking sector.

Titanium handlebars are sought-after exotics. Titanium bars such as those from Thomson combine low weight, high durability and a pleasant ride feel – at a correspondingly high price.

Note: with lightweight handlebar models in particular, check the relevant weight limits and approved areas of use.

Shortening MTB handlebars

Many MTB handlebars can be cut down to exactly the width you want. Before you reach for a saw or pipe cutter, make sure you read the manufacturer's instructions, because not every bar may be shortened at will. Here is how to go about it:

• Decide on your width: measure out the handlebar width you want. Measure from the centre of the bar and mark it on both sides. And don't forget: measure twice, cut once.
• If you use a saw guide, you will usually have to remove the handlebars first.
• Shortening aluminium handlebars: use a fine hacksaw and a saw guide, or a pipe cutter made for bicycle handlebars. Then deburr the cut edge carefully.
• Shortening carbon handlebars: use a special carbon blade and a sawing jig. Fine frayed edges can be filed down carefully. Afterwards you should seal the cut edge – synthetic resin works best, or superglue at a pinch. Make absolutely sure you do not breathe in the carbon dust. Wear respiratory protection, gloves and safety glasses while you work.
• Fitting: then refit the grips and bar plugs and realign your brake and shift levers correctly. Use a torque wrench and stick to the torque figures specified by the manufacturer.

Tip: our YouTube video “Shortening handlebars – alloy and carbon” takes you through the whole process step by step.

FAQ: MTB handlebars

How wide should MTB handlebars be?

As a starting point: cross-country/marathon 700–740 mm, trail/enduro 740–780 mm, downhill 780–820 mm. Wider means more control, but less manoeuvrability in a race field or on tight trails. The handlebar width also has to suit your shoulder width. If you have narrow shoulders, bars that are too wide often lead to tension and sore hands.

How do I know my handlebars are too wide?

Typical signs: aching wrists or shoulders, the feeling that you have to splay your arms, or catching your bars in tight spots. To test it, move the brake levers and grips inwards a little and take a test ride before you cut anything.

What does more rise on the handlebars do?

More pronounced rise lifts the front end. That gives a more upright position, more control on steep descents and can take strain off your wrists. The downside: less pressure on the front wheel when climbing. That is why downhillers usually run bars with more rise and cross-country riders less.

How is rise measured?

Rise is measured as the height difference between the clamping area in the centre of the bar and the straight grip section. Common figures range from 0 mm (flat bar) to 50 mm (riser bar); for very high front ends there are individual models up to 80 mm (high riser).

What does backsweep mean on handlebars?

Backsweep describes the rearward bend of the grip ends, given in degrees. Seven to nine degrees is typical. Backsweep brings your wrists into a more natural position; some handlebars go considerably further with 12°, 16° or even 34°.

What does upsweep mean on handlebars?

Upsweep is the upward angle of the grip ends. Four to six degrees is typical, though the range runs from 0 to around 8°. Together with backsweep, upsweep determines how neutrally your wrists sit on the bar.

Carbon or aluminium: which is better?

Carbon is lighter and can be tuned specifically for comfort – it then filters vibration noticeably. Carbon bars cost more, and damage after a crash is often invisible from the outside. Aluminium is cheaper and tends to respond to overloading with visible deformation – but you should not rely on that blindly. Alloy, too, can fatigue and break unseen in the clamping areas. Both handlebar materials are safe as long as you observe the torque figures, inspect them carefully after hard crashes and replace them if there is any damage.

How long do carbon handlebars last – and when do I need to replace them?

There is no fixed “expiry date” for carbon handlebars. You should replace the bar after a hard crash onto the cockpit, or if you find cracks, lifted fibres or soft spots, or if bolts have been overtightened. Surface scratches in the clear coat are usually harmless – but if in doubt, replace the bar.

What torque should handlebars be fitted at?

The figures printed on the stem and handlebars apply, and the lower of the two counts. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern and in small increments. With carbon, a torque wrench and usually carbon assembly paste are mandatory. The paste ensures a secure hold at the specified torque.

What diameter do MTB handlebars have?

Two dimensions: 31.8 mm or 35 mm at the clamp (older bars 25.4 mm). Handlebars and stem have to match. Approved adapter shims are available for 31.8 to 35 mm. In the grip area all MTB handlebars are identical (22.2 mm), so grips and levers are compatible.

Can I shorten my MTB handlebars?

Yes, if the manufacturer allows it: many handlebars carry markings or specify a minimum width. No marking does not mean “can be cut as you like”. Shorten both sides by the same amount (alloy: fine saw or pipe cutter; carbon: fine-toothed special blade plus tape to prevent fraying).

How high should MTB handlebars be?

There is no universal figure. The height follows from your discipline and the riding position you want. To experiment, start with spacers and the stem; in the long run, handlebars with more rise are a stiffer solution than a tall stack of spacers. For more tips, take a look at our ergonomics 101!.