Gravel Bars: Grip on any terrain

Gravel handlebars are a variation of classic road bike handlebars. The basic shape is identical, but the design and dimensions differ considerably. It is exactly these small distinctions that make gravel bars either fit perfectly or result in a lazy compromise. Therefore, a little "theory" and preliminary consideration is worthwhile before you decide on the right set of gravel bars. 

How do I choose the right gravel bars?

In order to be able to choose your new handlebars perfectly, you should know the dimensions of the handlebars you are currently using. Take this opportunity to determine the dimensions of your stem.
Because the mix of aerodynamics, control, comfort and view can produce very different results, handlebars qualifying as "gravel" vary greatly. Your choice of handlebars starts with body ergonomics: What is your size and build? The taller, wider and heavier you are, the wider your handlebars will be. The rule of thumb for classic road handlebars is that they should align the shoulder, elbow and wrist joints. Whether you’re gripping the brake levers or the lower bar is irrelevant, because these are in the classic road handlebars on one axis. Not so with most gravel cores.

Reach: In between stretched and stocky

Reach measures how far the handlebar horn extends forward from the top bar, and thus determines the position of the brake lever. The greater the reach of the handlebars, the more stretched your posture on the bike. Of course, there is also the stem width to consider: A large reach can be ergonomically compensated with a shorter stem; of course, it also works the other way around. Gravel bars generally have a shorter reach than tempo-oriented road handlebars. Tip: Our filters allow you to search specifically for your desired reach.

Backsweep: Good for the wrists

The backsweep describes the bending of the transvere bar to the rear, i.e. in the direction of the rider. Many drivers find this back bend more comfortable when gripping the top bar compared to the straight top bar. At the same time, this is a "trick" in the entire handlebar design: because the reach of the handlebars is shortened without changing the shape and dimensions of the horn arch. Completely logical: the backsweep is also in proportion to the stem length. The larger the backsweep, the longer the stem needs to be to keep the brake levers in the same position.

Lower bar grip: A departure from roundness

As early as the 1980s, the first road handlebars appeared with horns that had an ergonomic bend instead of a uniform radius. With gravel bars, this shape is of particular importance, as the handlebars are held in this area as soon as the terrain becomes more demanding or the rider picks up speed. "Form fit" is the ergonomic keyword that counts here: The more contact surface there is between hands and handlebars, the more comfortable they are to grip and the better your control when riding wildly. A double-S shape in the kink, such as those on VentureMax handlebars (found here in the carbon version) from Ritchey, has proven to be particularly comfortable for many riders.

Bikepackers should keep luggage in mind

If you want to take your gravel bike on a bikepacking tour, transporting luggage becomes an issue when choosing handlebars. A wide handlebar can accommodate a wider handlebar bag. Drop flare also increases the "storage space" between the handlebars, provided the bag does not sit directly under the top bar. However, a large flare out can lead to collisions between brake levers, or the shifting or braking hands, and the bag. In any case, you should evaluate how you want the handlebar and bag to fit together before your first tour. Note that brake- and shift cables or -housing may collide with the bag when turning, then they must be replaced with longer ones.

Stem clamps: Same for all gravel cores

There is one thing all gravel bars agree on: clamps should measure 31.8 mm. It is also worth paying attention to the clamp width of the handlebars, for example if you want to mount a time trial attachment or various devices (GPS, battery light, etc.). For example, gravel bars from Salsa feature an exceptionally wide clamp. Conversely, an aerodynamic oval-designed top bar considerably reduces the scope for such attachments.
As mentioned several times, there are interactions between the dimensions of the gravel bars and the stem used. That's why you should see them as a unit: The perfect gravel handlebar is nothing if the dimensions of the stem put it in the wrong position. So the measurements must match.
Some gravel bars have recesses for bowden cables and lines, so they don’t hang as high and provide a more comfortable grip. There are also handlebars, such as the Service Course 70 XPLR from Zipp, which are compatible with the electric distributor EW-RS910 for Shimano's Di2. For gravel bikes, it's also worth using extra thick handlebar tape, like the DSP 3.2 from Lizard Skins, or even a double layer: Particularly on long distances, old hands with big hands like to wrap two layers of handlebar tape.