bc Mechanic Thomas tightens a new cassette on the freehub with a torque wrench.
bc Mechanic Thomas tightens a new cassette on the freehub with a torque wrench.

How To: Changing a cassette on a road bike? This is how it’s done!

A cassette on a road bike or gravel bike can be changed quickly. We’ll show you how to replace the cassette with just two tools.

For each and every lovingly maintained road bike or gravel bike, the day comes when the drivetrain wears out. After you have replaced the chain two or three times, it is then usually the cassette's turn. First of all, you should consider whether you simply want to replace your old cassette with an identical new model, or whether you have the option of making an upgrade or changing to a different gear ratio or gradation within a specified framework. Only the following is required:

  1. The cassette must have the same number of sprockets as your previous one (i.e. nine, ten, eleven, twelve or 13 gears).
  2. The spread of the cassette (i.e. the difference in the number of teeth between the largest and smallest sprocket) must match the rear derailleur.
  3. The cassette must fit your freehub.

You can learn more in our post about road bike groupsets and our overview of freehub types.

In this how-to guide we'll show you how to change your cassette, using the example of a rear wheel with a Shimano freehub. There are different standards for freehubs, which is why you cannot simply switch between cassettes from Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo, but the procedure for replacing the cassette is the same everywhere.

This image compares two Shimano cassettes. On the right of the picture is a new one, on the left side is one with clear signs of wear.
This image compares two Shimano cassettes. On the right of the picture is a new one, on the left side is one with clear signs of wear.

If you spend a lot of time on your road bike or gravel bike, sooner or later it will be time to service the drivetrain.

bc Mechanic Thomas holds a new Shimano 11-speed cassette up to the camera.
bc Mechanic Thomas holds a new Shimano 11-speed cassette up to the camera.

We’ll show you step-by-step how to change the cassette on your road bike.

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Step 1: Remove the Chain

Step 1: Remove the Chain

Modern chains are almost always equipped with a master link. To open it cleanly, it is best to use master link pliers. Chains without a master link can be opened with a chain tool. However, if the cassette is worn, the chain is usually worn as well. Since you will be disposing of them after disassembly anyway, you can simply cut them with bolt cutters. Be careful: the chain is under tension, so you should fix it in place. If your rear derailleur has a vibration damper (e.g. Shimano GRX), you should open it to reduce the tension of the cage.


Tip: It is best to take apart the chain along the lower strand! An old spoke bent at both ends is very helpful for holding the chain’s tension until you can use both hands again.

Modern chains are almost always equipped with a master link. To open it cleanly, it is best to use master link pliers. Chains without a master link can be opened with a chain tool. However, if the cassette is worn, the chain is usually worn as well. Since you will be disposing of them after disassembly anyway, you can simply cut them with bolt cutters. Be careful: the chain is under tension, so you should fix it in place. If your rear derailleur has a vibration damper (e.g. Shimano GRX), you should open it to reduce the tension of the cage.


Tip: It is best to take apart the chain along the lower strand! An old spoke bent at both ends is very helpful for holding the chain’s tension until you can use both hands again.

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Step 2: Remove the Rear Wheel

Step 2: Remove the Rear Wheel

To remove the rear wheel, first shift to the smallest sprocket. On road bikes with rim brakes, open the small quick release on the brake body so that the inflated tyre fits through the brake shoes. For Campagnolo, the quick release is referred to as the axle, and is located on the brake lever. After that, loosen the quick release or the thru-axle and remove the wheel. To access the cassette with the tool in the following step, you should remove the quick release from the hub.

Tip: You can clean and lightly grease the axle or quick release at the same time. Place them within reach of the wheel – this will make assembly quicker later.

To remove the rear wheel, first shift to the smallest sprocket. On road bikes with rim brakes, open the small quick release on the brake body so that the inflated tyre fits through the brake shoes. For Campagnolo, the quick release is referred to as the axle, and is located on the brake lever. After that, loosen the quick release or the thru-axle and remove the wheel. To access the cassette with the tool in the following step, you should remove the quick release from the hub.

Tip: You can clean and lightly grease the axle or quick release at the same time. Place them within reach of the wheel – this will make assembly quicker later.

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Step 3: Disassemble the Old Cassette

Step 3: Disassemble the Old Cassette

Disassemble the old cassette by loosening the lockring that sits in front of the smallest sprocket. To do this you need a chain whip (or a pair of cassette pliers) and a cassette remover. This is the name of the multi-tooth socket that you insert into the lockring from the front. Since the lockring loosens in the same direction as the freehub rotates, you need the chain whip to hold the cassette in place. The photo illustrates how you use the tools to loosen the cassette. Place the chain whip on one of the larger sprockets. The cassette remover is on the ratchet in our photos, but you can also use a ring wrench or an adjustable wrench to grip the remover. Other removers come with their own handle. To loosen the lockring, turn the remover anticlockwise while holding the cassette with the chain whip (or cassette pliers) in the other direction.
After removing the lockring, you should be able to easily pull the cassette off the freehub. If you have been riding the cassette for a long time, it may be that it is very tight on the freehub and you need a little more force to pull it off. Make sure that you don't pull the freehub off the hub body along with the cassette! With some hubs this is very easy. If you have an aluminium HG freehub and a cassette with individual steel sprockets, it can happen that the sprockets have eaten into the freehub and the cassette can only be released with great effort.

Pro Tip: When loosening the cassette, bend over the wheel from the other side – as shown in the picture. This way you won't get your knuckles caught on the spokes.

Disassemble the old cassette by loosening the lockring that sits in front of the smallest sprocket. To do this you need a chain whip (or a pair of cassette pliers) and a cassette remover. This is the name of the multi-tooth socket that you insert into the lockring from the front. Since the lockring loosens in the same direction as the freehub rotates, you need the chain whip to hold the cassette in place. The photo illustrates how you use the tools to loosen the cassette. Place the chain whip on one of the larger sprockets. The cassette remover is on the ratchet in our photos, but you can also use a ring wrench or an adjustable wrench to grip the remover. Other removers come with their own handle. To loosen the lockring, turn the remover anticlockwise while holding the cassette with the chain whip (or cassette pliers) in the other direction.
After removing the lockring, you should be able to easily pull the cassette off the freehub. If you have been riding the cassette for a long time, it may be that it is very tight on the freehub and you need a little more force to pull it off. Make sure that you don't pull the freehub off the hub body along with the cassette! With some hubs this is very easy. If you have an aluminium HG freehub and a cassette with individual steel sprockets, it can happen that the sprockets have eaten into the freehub and the cassette can only be released with great effort.

Pro Tip: When loosening the cassette, bend over the wheel from the other side – as shown in the picture. This way you won't get your knuckles caught on the spokes.

4
Step 4: Clean the Freehub Body

Step 4: Clean the Freehub Body

Before you put the new cassette on the freehub body, you can clean it and the hub. Places that you cannot reach with a rag can be cleaned with an old toothbrush. To reduce the above-mentioned seizing of the cassette on the freehub, you should grease the freehub body a little before sliding on the new cassette.

Before you put the new cassette on the freehub body, you can clean it and the hub. Places that you cannot reach with a rag can be cleaned with an old toothbrush. To reduce the above-mentioned seizing of the cassette on the freehub, you should grease the freehub body a little before sliding on the new cassette.

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Step 5: Install the New Cassette

Step 5: Install the New Cassette

The cassette only fits on the freehub in one position. This is ensured by grooves with varying widths at different points on the freehub body. On the cassette you will find splines that correspond to the hub’s grooves. Just make sure that you push the widest spline onto the widest groove! When the cassette is in place with all the sprockets, you can put on the lockring and tighten it.
Road bike cassettes from SRAM with twelve gears require an XDR freehub. It makes it possible to install cassettes with a smallest sprocket of only ten teeth. The XDR differs significantly from Shimano and Campa freehubs: the grooves do not extend over the entire length of the freehub, as the cassette is only carried along by grooves on the last piece of the freehub. The cassette is simply pushed onto the freehub from the front and screwed tight. For this purpose, the cassettes have an internal multi-tooth gearing and no lockring like the other manufacturers. Please pay close attention to the required torque for all variants and use a torque wrench for assembly!

The cassette only fits on the freehub in one position. This is ensured by grooves with varying widths at different points on the freehub body. On the cassette you will find splines that correspond to the hub’s grooves. Just make sure that you push the widest spline onto the widest groove! When the cassette is in place with all the sprockets, you can put on the lockring and tighten it.
Road bike cassettes from SRAM with twelve gears require an XDR freehub. It makes it possible to install cassettes with a smallest sprocket of only ten teeth. The XDR differs significantly from Shimano and Campa freehubs: the grooves do not extend over the entire length of the freehub, as the cassette is only carried along by grooves on the last piece of the freehub. The cassette is simply pushed onto the freehub from the front and screwed tight. For this purpose, the cassettes have an internal multi-tooth gearing and no lockring like the other manufacturers. Please pay close attention to the required torque for all variants and use a torque wrench for assembly!

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Step 6: Re-mount the Rear Wheel

Step 6: Re-mount the Rear Wheel

Finally, re-mount your rear wheel. You should have already cleaned the axle or your quick release and applied fresh grease. Before you put the rear wheel back in place, mount the quick release in the hub again – or put the greased axle in place.
You can then fit the new chain and get back on your bike. Have fun on your next road bike tour!

Finally, re-mount your rear wheel. You should have already cleaned the axle or your quick release and applied fresh grease. Before you put the rear wheel back in place, mount the quick release in the hub again – or put the greased axle in place.
You can then fit the new chain and get back on your bike. Have fun on your next road bike tour!

Laura, Markus and Sergej from bc ride their road bikes along a road near the coast. The sun is setting in the background.
Laura, Markus and Sergej from bc ride their road bikes along a road near the coast. The sun is setting in the background.